A seed doesn’t just conjure up green dreams of pure vegetal bliss. A seed implies a beginning, the core of something new, a harbinger of eating trends to come. Just two-months-old, Seed is the latest creation of the Water Library group, planted and tended to by veteran Singaporean chef Haikal Johari. It’s a refreshing new attempt at a kind of restaurant that Bangkok needs and should become a natural.
Seed’s whole thrust is toward the homey, the healthy, the rustic, the casual, and the reasonably priced. It’s designed to be the kind of place where patrons feel instantly at home—a large unfinished space full of exposed brick, exposed bulbs at the end of twisting, thick rope, and rows of glass jars full of inviting staples and grains. And given that Seed is located along Sukhumvit 39 on the fringes of Thong Lo and some of Bangkok’s most exclusive expat havens, its as yet very small menu—soon to be amplified by a special chef-selected four-course menu at B1900—is designed to be both accessible and affordable. In fact, it’s being billed as a “neighbourhood restaurant,” beckoning regulars from wherever, although not whenever, as right now it is only open for dinner, from 5:30pm until midnight at this point. The place even boasts decent wines by the glass starting at B189.
The eager crew, at work in the open kitchen behind walls of windows, all sport bright yellow caps and t-shirts printed with the words: “Culinary Badass.” The proof of that comes in the form of a properly slow-cooked duck confit, ample and not too soggy, served with a grilled stalk of fennel (B590); a signature tartare of lamb informed by a smear of homemade, herbed mayonnaise (B390); and amazing desserts, like a mock shortcake that combines homemade strawberry sorbet with rose-flavoured custard and even frozen rose tuile (B250). Better save room for the spinach tortellini in brown butter (only B390) or the white asparagus topped with manchego cheese, too.
No wonder the friendly cooks like to personally bear forth and introduce their handiwork—the service, sometimes haphazard in Thailand, is on the contrary utterly scrupulous here.
You can get your burger, steak, or salmon here, but Seed’s full flowering comes in the form of delightful veg treats, like delicate and clearly fresh-picked heirloom carrots of differing hues, combined with Japanese root vegetables and cleverly bathed in the perfectly tangy compliment of Moroccan ras el hanout. Stayed tuned to see just how high and far this Seed grows.
104 Sukhumvit 39 | 09 9283 6363 | facebook.com/seedbangkok | Tues-Sun 5pm-midnight