A former boat repair shop on the Chao Phraya River next to Phra Athit Pier makes a unique and charming setting for the latest culinary enterprise from chef Somkiat ‘Joke’ Pairojmahakij, whose low-key Seven Spoons became a Dusit neighbourhood hit. The boatyard’s industrial look has been maintained, with the original ropes and wooden pulleys still hanging from the double-height ceilings.
Floor-to-ceiling windows afford pleasing views of river life and majestic Rama VIII Bridge. A small outside veranda offers a more unimpeded view, as well as accommodating smokers.
A chalkboard announces the nightly specials while a one-page table menu keeps the decision-making pleasantly minimal. A well-stocked bar to one side serves classic and bespoke cocktails, craft beers and wine by the glass or bottle.
The focus here is on fresh, organic, fair-trade ingredients sourced locally, for the most part. Joke calls the menu ‘new American’, with an emphasis on hearty flavours, grilled meats and seafood. Portions are ample and well-plated, and served with artisan breads baked on the premises.
Among the appetisers are succulent meatballs with caramelised onions and wild berry jam (B220), squid and chorizo skewers with chipotle aioli (B220) and grilled vegetable salad with goats cheese (B220) and paneer and peaches dusted with dukkah (a blend of peanuts, sesame, coriander seed, black pepper, salt and dried coconut).
The Moroccan theme continues with a savoury vegetable tagine with almonds, chickpeas and couscous (B280). Other one-dish items on the menu include conchiglie pasta with hand-caught crab and lobster oil (B280) and mushroom risotto with Lao pinenuts (B280).
The sizzling razor clams with pancetta and fennel butter sauce (B320) is the best version of this dish we’ve ever tasted, with Joe Sloan organic sausages with mashed blue cheese potatoes (B320) a close second.
We were happy following Chef Joke’s recommendation to order lamb roasted with rosemary and juniper and served with caramelised persimmons (B1150), a signature main for the eatery and a recommendation well worth passing on.
Finish off with a simple round of homemade sorbets and ice cream – if you still have room.
47 Phra Arthit Rd | 02-629-5165
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