There’s no getting around the obvious at a place like Sirocco – no matter how well-made the cocktails or impressive the food, the view is undeniably the star of the show. Perched like a bird’s nest in the crook of an enormous tree, Sirocco offers a panoramic view of the Chao Praya River and Bangkok’s entire southern sweep.
Hanging out at the Sky Bar as the shadows lengthen stirs the irresistible feeling that one has truly arrived in Bangkok. Importantly, the cocktails are inventive enough to stand on their own, although the lavish setting certainly adds to the price tag. The Sunset 63 (B550) combines Bulldog gin with carrot, orange juice and lime, while the Havana Royale (B650) indulgently muddles Seleccion de Maestros rum with apple, grapes and aloe vera juice.
To the food, Sirocco’s menu could be broadly described as modern European, with an emphasis on quality produce and presentation. For example, the jumbo prawn (B990) is so massive it comes out in its own glass jar, eventually served with lemongrass, pomelo salad and orange-ginger sauce. The prawn, presumably wild, is one of the firmest, freshest pieces of seafood around.
The foie gras (B990) is also first-rate, alongside a brulee and nuts crumble, terrine and banyuls jelly, with a serve of ginger bread. There’s almost after-dinner sweetness to the accompaniments, offsetting the richness of the foie gras.
If seafood is your weakness, you might also be tempted by the Alaskan scallop (B1090) served with sautee sugar snaps, Pernod sauce and ossetra caviar.
Of course, it goes up a notch for the mains – those unable to withstand the lure of a good cut of meat will struggle to go past the Wagyu beef sirloin (B2780) with pickled shallots and potato mousseline or La Garrigue lamb rack (B1990) with thyme ashes, wilted spinach and garlic puree. At Sirocco, the carnivore is handsomely rewarded. These are serious cuts.
Sirocco smashes it out of the park on desserts. The sweet pizza, combining red bell pepper and strawberry, is the curveball, while the Opera 2013, hits all the right creamy notes of chocolate, almond and coffee.
It’s not the place you’ll go on a lazy Tuesday night but it’s impossible to tuck into the food here, the skyline twinkling like a canvas of a million neon candles, without being impressed.
63/F, Tower Club at Lebua, Silom Road | 02-6249550 | lebua.com/sirocco | 6pm-1am