Within Bangkok’s vast melting pot of international cuisines, poor old New Zealand can get overlooked, but it ensures anyone who ventures down the sub-soi that snakes left from Cheap Charlie’s on Sukhumvit Soi 11 to Snapper has a joyous discovery waiting for them.
New Zealand cuisine is hard to define precisely but it emphasises quality produce, and allows it to speak for itself with uncomplicated presentation. This works particularly well when it comes to seafood and, although Snapper has a low-key, laidback atmosphere, owners Mark and Craig take their produce very seriously, importing it all the way from the chilly waters of the Tasman.
It pays off handsomely. The Nelson Bay scallops, sauteed in white wine, butter and chives (B790) epitomise the approach of not masking the natural goodness of the product with a stack of heavy sauces and extra ingredients. That seafood taste is there in spades, along with a perfectly firm yet tender texture that identifies top-drawer seafood. They’ve got some stiff competition from the mussels, though, served as starters (B200-B300) or in a more substantial sharing platter (B480), topped with spiced tomato that offsets the ocean-infused tang without overwhelming it.
Snapper has done its darnedest to set itself apart as serving the best fish and chips in Bangkok and it’s pretty hard to argue with the orange roughie (B480) that just comes apart effortlessly on the plate and, with a squirt of lemon, works spectacularly on the tongue. There’s a vast selection: from red gurnard to flounder to kingfish and plenty more besides.
But if you think the Kiwis are keen on their seafood – they are, with good cause – they’re pretty jazzed about New Zealand lamb and beef as well. And while Snapper’s menu remains heavily seafood-focused, the addition of a small but brilliantly executed meat section is a masterstroke. The generous, succulent lamb chops (B690) come with a selection of homemade sauces that will have you licking the plate clean.
Snapper manages to be a chilled-out, inviting spot without compromising one iota on quality. It’s a winning combination that should put Kiwi cuisine on every diner’s radar.
1/20-22 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-651-1098 | snapper-bangkok.com
Mon-Fri 5pm midnight, Sat-Sun noon-midnight