No Kidding, Just Serious Thai Fusion
So a guy walks into a bar, orders tequila, and gets a mango pickle back. But there isn’t a punch line to the setup at Soul Food 555, a kiosk spin-off of the much-loved Soul Food Mahanakorn. This closetsized hotspot at lifestyle mall-cum-socialite mecca The Commons serves seriously satisfying Thai grub with exceptional Western undercurrents—not to mention one potent shot of El Jimador with a throat-tickling pickled chaser.
Amid a hipster bloc of Egg My God (where everything includes an egg), Vietnamese-fusion stall East Bound, and an offshoot of Bao & Buns called Xiao Chi, Soul Food 555 is at the culinary nexus where east and west converge, slap hands, and share beers. Unlike its sibling up the soi, this Soul Food isn’t striving for authenticity. And so experimentation is the norm.
The menu is small, distinguished by a few dishes that must have been the result of some after-midnight fridge raids: linguine kee mao-style, filled out with crispy pork belly; “The Fatso Crab,” a heaving pile of sour green mango atop a fried softshell crab, all between a burger bun; and “The Khao Soi Cowboy” (B250), already an object of foodie desire, courtesy of Instagram. Part of a three-deep “Thailand Sandwich” repertoire, this tawny monster of pulled pork basted in khao soi curry really deserves the online accolades. With tangy pork borne between a sweet potato roll, topped with fried egg noodles, and leavened with lime, cilantro, and sweet mustard pickles, the sandwich is messy and bold, precisely the level of heat that makes salivary glands pump without devastating the palate. Above all, it’s fun.
While Soul Food 555’s architects shine brightest with their least traditional dishes, this isn’t to say a relatively normal grass-fed beef satay with succulent peanut sauce fails to impress (B140). In fact, the more everyday Thai dishes on the menu hit the spot as neatly as those at the original Soul Food—they just might not sound as sexy as a “Fatso Crab.”
Try the heady lamb gaprow, plated with organic jasmine rice and a runny fried egg procured from Chiang Rai, courtesy of Hilltribe Organics (B275). And pick up a pipinghot bowl of tum yam rice noodles with shredded free-range chicken, button mushrooms, and savoury fried shallots floating like flotsam in the piquant broth (B150). Roll up your sleeves, order to share, have it all delivered to your table outside, and snap a couple photos for social media. After all, 555 (hahaha), you’re supposed to have fun with your food.
Soul Food 555
Unit #M14, The Commons, Thong Lo 17 | 0 2101 4526 | facebook.com/soulfood555 | daily 11am-10pm