Eastern fare with a Bangkok flair
The cuisine of most regions of Thailand all get equal play in Bangkok, with tasty Northern sausage, spicy Isaan delicacies, and fiery Southern curries almost always within easy reach. However, the cuisine of Eastern Thailand—and in particular Trat province—is not nearly so well represented, which is just one of the reasons why a visit to the recently opened Sri Trat is so worthwhile.
Located up at the top end of Sukhumvit Soi 33, this beautifully remodeled house-turned-restaurant is immediately recognizable by its iconic emblem—the B&W face of a woman wearing a stylized crown. The woman in question is none other than owner Wongwich Sripinyoo’s mother (a former Miss Trat beauty contest winner), and it’s also mom’s recipes that pop up throughout the diverse menu.
For those unfamiliar with Eastern Thai cuisine, it’s notable for its abundance of seafood, and the use of fresh fruits and rare herbs. Our first dish is the fabulous Whole mud crab with creamy roe (B540), served in a blue ceramic pot accompanied by a bevy of vegetables (for dipping). It’s spicy but not overpowering, and the crunchy fresh vegetables make it a deliciously healthy starter for sharing. Next up is a very unique item off the salad menu, namely the Thai herbal salad with ceviche-style barracuda (B220), served with a special “house secret sauce”. This dish is a true standout! The fish flesh is citrus-cured to a perfect firmness, and the sauce—made with peanut brittle—adds an extra dimension of sweet and smoky flavour.
Moving from seafood delights to terrestrial treats, we first sample the Sweet and sour pork cha muang curry (B220), which sees tender pork belly chunks immersed in a tangy herbal stew, with chamuang leaves providing the uniquely aromatic taste. A second curry follows, this time the Massaman chicken curry with young durian (B280). Here the chewy chunks of sweet durian take the place of potato—normally found in Massaman curries—and the combination is superb. This dish is also a nod to the fact that Trat province is one of Thailand’s most renowned producers of durian.
To finish off we sample the Signature assorted dessert selection (B350) which is enough for at least two, and includes: “turtle eggs” (mung bean centered sweets in warm coconut milk); soft crepes with green bean and coconut filling; and coconut centered dumplings dipped in warm coconut milk.
It’s also worth noting that the warm and welcoming bar area—which doubles as the entrance—serves up some cleverly concocted cocktails. At the mixologist’s suggestion we sample the Ruang Thong (B340), a pleasantly potent mix of tequila reposado, Laphroig single malt scotch, Licor43, and rice flavoured tea, and the significantly sweeter Tang May (B340), which combines Monkey Shoulder whisky, condensed milk, cinnamon syrup, sweet vermouth, Benedictine, bitters, and a few other yummy surprises.
90, Sukhumvit Soi 33
Open: Wed-Mon, noon-11pm | Tel: 02 088 0968