Teutonic tastes from wunderkind twins
One of Bangkok’s most talked-about new culinary enterprises occupies a multi-level 1970s house on a leafy street off Yen Akat Road. Filled with period-correct furniture to match, and labelled with a gate sign simply reading “Sühring”, the attractive dwelling offers only one subtle clue—a cluster of mid-20th-century German etchings on the walls—hinting at the origins of the dishes coming out of the restaurant’s state-of-the-art kitchen.
Berlin-born twin brothers Mathias and Thomas Sühring—who are so indistinguishable from each other, that in order for their own staff to more easily tell them apart, they wear different coloured jackets—learned their craft in Germany, the Netherlands, and Italy, including a stint under three-star Michelin-rated chef Sven Elverfeld at the Ritz-Carlton Wolfsburg, before making their mark in Bangkok as head chefs at Mezzaluna. The twins’ dedication and talent caught the attention of Gaggan Anand, famed chef-owner of Gaggan restaurant—who has joined the brothers as a full-time partner in the restaurant.
“We spent seven years cooking French, Italian, and other European cuisines here in Bangkok, but never really had a chance to show where we came from,” says Thomas. “Now that we have our own place, we want to express our heritage.”
“When people think of German cuisine, they often think of Munich Oktoberfest kinds of food, heavy sausages and sauerkraut serves in big portions. But we’re cooking New German cuisine. Here in Bangkok there’s really no one else doing this.”
The Sührings updated German cooking uses modern techniques and boutique ingredients, while following traditional flavour profiles. “We import cream from Germany to make our own butter,” says Thomas. “And also flour for traditional German bread, of course. But we also try to use local ingredients where we can.”
For now, Sühring offers two tasting menus of 9 courses (B1,800) and 12 courses (B2,500), changing seasonally. One of the dishes we enjoyed immensely was Himmel und Erde (Heaven and Earth), a traditional German delicacy consisting of black pudding, crisped onions, mashed potato, and spiced apple puree. Spazle, a soft egg noodle made by hand and cut straight into boiling water, then mixed with toasted garlic and truffled cheese, was also a treat. A course of Hungarian foie gras is served on a brioche slice balanced on a glass filled with Alois Kracher Austrian late-harvest dessert wine, and wild trout, gently smoked on the restaurants wood grill, came with perfectly steamed spargel (white asparagus) imported from Germany.
German bread lovers will enjoy soft pretzels and dark brown sourdough bread, both baked on the premises and served with Obatzda, a Bavarian cheese dip made by mixing aged Camembert and butter, along with Oldenburger butter, homemade pickles, Black Forest ham and dry-aged beef.
10, Yen Akat Soi 3
Tel: 02 287 1799
Open daily: 6pm-midnight