Soup Nuea & Spicy Salads for the Soul
Is Thai food better suited for porcelain or plastic? The question inevitably arises any time one considers the cuisine’s fit within the 50 Best and Michelin Guides of the world, or any time a restaurant boasts the flavours of the street in the air-conditioned comfort of a linen-fitted dining room. Yet every so often, a place like Supanniga Eating Room opens, or expands, and suddenly no one cares to argue the point anymore, silenced, as it were, by a table full of grandma’s recipes that don’t need a highfalutin guide book to extol their virtues.
The second branch of Supanniga on Sathorn 10 claims three beautifully renovated floors of a formerly dilapidated shophouse. On the first floor, spools of brightly coloured thread form a wall mosaic in the shape of the supanniga flower, and the ceiling (as well as chairs) use silk-weaving looms as a design element, a visual show of respect to owner Thanaruek “Eh” Laoraowirodge and family’s Eastern and Isaan heritage. Here, house music and the clank of wine and Isaan martini glasses provide contrast to the old-timey feel. This is truly a pleasant place to enjoy a meal, where food and furnishings neatly complement one another.
Rare cuts, replicated from the kitchen of Eh’s grandmother, begin with a platter of ma hor, mieng yong, and khaotang namprik kakmoo (B245). Peanuts, chilli, coconut, and citrus mix beautifully in the ma hor (set on a segment of tangerine) and pork floss has never tasted as good as it does in this mieng yong (like a mini Thai taco with cha plu leaf wrapper). And “Khun Yai’s” namprik could be eaten with a spoon, without shame. Yet this is just a prelude.
Order the moo cha muang, an umami-rich curry from the East with stewed pork and herby cha muang leaves (B190). Really, get a few dishes to share, because the addictive cabbage stir-fried in premium fish sauce, with a delightful crunch and flavour not unlike a good chip (B120), the gaeng pa “sparrow on a chopping board,” with its tender flaky fish and deeply aromatic broth (B180), and “son in law” eggs, medium-boiled and fried and then finished with a tangy, tamarind-laced three-flavour sauce (B130), are just too delicious to skip.
If you do miss out on a dish (you will; this is an impeccable menu), pocket-friendly prices make it easy to return for, say, Thai tea panna cotta (B110) or piquant namprik khai pu (B190). And you won’t need a guide telling you what to order—only your appetite.
Supanniga Eating Room
28 Sathorn 10 | 0 2635 0349 | supannigaeatingroom.com | daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30pm-11.30pm