Deliciously furnished tribute to the Raja of Ratchaprasong
A majestic elder statesman in the exclusive club of long-established five-star Bangkok properties, the Grand Hyatt Erawan is a landmark hotel situated at one of the four points of the exclusive and world-renowned Ratchaprasong junction—in the heart of the city’s prime shopping district—and home to Tables Grill steak and seafood restaurant.
Many of the house’s signature dishes are prepared tableside at any of the grill stations that dot the dining area. The stylish, wood-panelled plinths used for this purpose—the “tables” from which the restaurant’s name is derived—also facilitate tableside meat carving and last minute dessert prepping.
After being delightfully amuse-bouche’d by a couplet of dainty tuna rillettes, our table was off to a palate-dazzling starter of Ocean trout tartare (B600), the pink-fresh fish’s stronger flavour gently tempered with the citrusy tartness of Japanese Yuzu fruit and Nori fresh cilantro (aka: coriander). Then, an intensely flavourful Bellotta Iberico ham (B800) was brought out. Cured for 36 months, the tender, dark-red pork has a buttery-smooth bite and savoury goodness that makes respected gourmands and chefs call it the world’s finest ham.
Mains included Grass-fed Iberico lamb (B1,200/150gr) from the Aragón region of Catalonia. The magret-cut loin comes adorned with Spanish morels and garlic confit in a lamb glacé, while a side-bowl of smoked sea-salt provides an exciting additional dimension of flavour. The fish course was a lovely and light Braised ocean trout fillet (B900) with endive dusted in grated French truffle, pumpkin purée, and a tartness-shot of Citrus Sabayon.
What the oven-baked Jidori chicken (B1,000/900gr) lacked in heft, it more than made up for in supremely satisfying taste and robust bite. The Japanase-Thai cross-breed fowl has a distinctly firm bite (think a more tender and succulent version of local-style ban gai). Served with grilled broccoli florets, and drizzled with a chicken-stock glaze, our bird was oven-browned to perfection.
Amidst chit-chat about the aforementioned chicken’s fascinating pedigree, a wooden plank of Grain-fed Wagyu (B1,300/150gr) flank steak quickly brought the table to attention. The M3-rated beef—from the celebrated Darling Downs farms of Queensland, Australia—shared its timber platter with rhubarb jelly, beetroot purée, and balsamic vinegar.
And when the clock struck afters-hour (featured desserts B400 each), it was upon this versatile furnishing that our Lemon tart burnt meringue with lemon sorbet made landfall, where a finishing layer of egg-white was piped on and brûlée torched before being served. Fire was also a key element of the Baked Alaska with forrest berries and berry coulis, which in fact is not oven-rendered but dramatically flambéed in cognac, which is elegantly warmed and decanted plate-side.
By Chris Michael
Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel, 494 Rajdamri Rd.
Tel: 02 254 6250
Open: Mon-Sat, 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30pm-10pm, Sunday Brunch: 11am-3pm