Among the skyscrapers of Silom and Sathorn there are also clusters of old Thai wooden houses. And some of them hold wonderful surprises—such as on site bakeries, restaurants… or both!
In 2016, when I first visited Tham Sue Tham Suan—then a bakery with an upstairs restaurant—it was located on Soi Silom 9. Back then you had to enter the soi, keep walking towards the end, and where the road splits you’d keep left and go straight as the alley narrows to a wooden two-story house on the right side. Now, the restaurant has a new location, on Soi Decho, but the dedication to making amazing dishes remains.
The name Tham Sue Tham Suan means “make blouse, make garden” but there is no garden or, for that matter, a blouse-making shop. Instead, it’s all about food. Owner-chef Juruwan, or Jub, used to have a dress-making shop in the Ratchawat area, but quite a few years ago she moved to the Silom/Sathorn area and focuses on what she loves best: cooking.
I recall vividly when I first arrived at her original Soi 9 location. I was confused. Did I accidentally wander into someone’s home? Could this be the right address? The space known as Khun Jub’s ‘food studio’ had me mesmerized with its blend of kitchen, dining area, and what looked like a bric-a-brac showroom to one side.
“When I grew up, the only activity we did as a family was cooking and eating,” Jub explained. As a girl, she knew all the herbs in her family’s garden and could grab anything and craft it into the food. “My cooking style has always been based on intuition and feeling.”
Her daily menu often begins with a phone call from the prospective diner. “What don’t you like to eat?” she asks. Or she will simply tell you what she has on as a special. Normally she offers four to five dishes: a soup, a salad, a pasta dish, and a main course, all predicated by seasonal ingredients and what she finds daily in the local markets. Trust me, whatever she cooks will be good!
Call Jub to make a reservation and check on the opening hours. Her price is roughly B750 per person but this varies depending on what she is serving on the day. The restaurant seats around 25 people and is available for private lunches and dinners.
Getting there: Tham Sue Tham Suan is located at 10/1 Soi Decho (walking distance from the Pullman G hotel). If you get lost, just call Jub on 08 1843 9628 for directions.