Among the skyscrapers of Sathorn there is an oasis of old wooden houses. Situated downstairs in one of them is a bakery, while upstairs there is a restaurant.
It is called Tham Sue Tham Suan, meaning “make blouse – make garden.” There is no longer a garden or, for that matter, a blouse-making shop. Instead, it’s all about food.
Owner-chef Juruwan, or Jub, used to have a dress-making shop in the Ratchawat area but four years ago she moved to this house to do what she loves best: cooking.
When I first arrive I am confused. Have I accidentally wandered into someone’s home? Is this the right address? The space is Khun Jub’s ‘food studio’ and I am mesmerized by the blend of kitchen, dining area and what looks like a bric-a-brac showroom to one side.
“When I grew up, the only activity we did as a family was cooking and eating,” Jub tells me. As a girl, she knew all the herbs in family’s garden and could grab anything and craft it into the food. “My cooking style has always been based on intuition and feeling.”
Her daily menu often begins with a phone call from the prospective diner. “What don’t you like to eat?” she asks. Or she will simply tell you what she has on as a special. Normally she offers four to five dishes: a soup, a salad, a pasta dish and a main course, all predicated by seasonal ingredients and what she finds daily in the market. Trust me, whatever she cooks will be good.
Call Jub to make a reservation and check on the opening hours. Her price is roughly B650 per person but this varies depending on what she is serving on the day. The restaurant seats around 25 people and is available for private lunches and dinners.
Getting there: Tham Sue Tham Suan is situated in Soi Silom 9. Enter the soi and keep going towards the end. When the road splits, keep left and go straight as the alley narrows. The wooden two-story house is on the right side. If you get lost, just call Jub on 08 1843 9628 for directions!