It’s not diplomats or even jet pilots or who are today’s most internationalized humans. It’s chefs who move most readily between kitchen assignments and seem best positioned to draw upon virtually all realms and cultures. At times, it looks like they’ve got the entire planet on their cutting boards. No wonder we love these masters of cuisine, who bring the world to a boil in a far more palatable way than our politics, helping us devour all the best of man and nature.
Probably the most exciting cooking migrant to make his serendipitous way to Thailand in 2015, Fatih Tatuk is one such culinary ambassador, who has most appropriately been put in charge of The Dining Room at the House at Sathorn, a showpiece of the new W Hotel Bangkok set within the opulent, 126-year-old former Russian Embassy.
“My menu is my life,” states this well-travelled 26-year-old, who tries through plated creations to sum up a culinary quest that has already taken him from his native Turkey to apprenticing at Copenhagen’s famed Noma to eight years in Asia, including a stint in the “real Chinese” coastal town of Qingdao.
To honour the history around him, Chef Fatih draws on his own with a menu so assertively personal that each of the luxurious yet disciplined dishes bears the name of a memory that inspires it. With the help of a supercharged crew who apply flame and spices from behind an open bar counter, diners can experience Early Morning at Tsukiji Market (B625), one of several homages to Japanese seafood. This tribute continues with Lost In Translation at Shinjuku, a dish of grilled salsify root beside a succulent hunk of fish topped with sea urchin sauce. Or maybe you want to go “Hunting” and haul in a tender slice of duck dotted with blood-red Sichuan peppers and charcoal blast powder—an ominous, though delicious, sight (B790). Built around the juiciest lamb this side of the Caucasus, the chef also delivers a taste of Turkey with Once Upon a Time in Istanbul (B890).
Other plates seem more like experiments in progress: Indian cauliflower that’s lovely but not so original, “no dough” ravioli where slivers of scallops encase truly intense truffles. Chef Fatih is happy for feedback. While showing he can go molecular, he never forgets full flavours or his clientele.
And where else but such uniquely elegant surroundings could one savour such a nowhere-else-on-earth finisher as seaweed macaroons with black sesame cream? This “House” plays host to the planet.
The Dining Room
106 North Sathorn Rd | thehouseonsathorn.com | 0 2344 4000 | daily lunch noon-2.30pm, dinner 6pm-10.30pm