There are certain challenges in running a flagship restaurant at a hotel – the constant turnover and the need for a broad, accessible menu are the most obvious. Even though these demands limit The Kitchen Table’s scope to be flamboyant, it still manages to deliver satisfying fare in a laidback, beautifully designed space. The emphasis on design comes as no surprise – it is, after all, a virtual trademark of W Hotels. At The Kitchen Table, the wide, high-ceilinged entrance forks into the buffet in one direction and the seated dining area in the other, all of it bathed in an amber glow.
The cocktails (B300) ensure an impressive opening – the Mango Mojito and Tangerine Caipirinha are pleasant, balanced variations on well-known drinks, with enough fresh fruit to give them some zing without going overboard.
There’s a sprawling menu that ticks several different boxes yet none of the dishes seem like afterthoughts and the presentation is, across the board, stylishly simple.
Highlights include the seafood ceviche (B550) and the bpuu nim tort prik, or soft-shell crab (B480). In both dishes, plenty of thought has gone into seasoning – although packed with flavour, neither sacrifices the essential seafood taste.
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The Kitchen Table
2/F, W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Rd | 02-344-4000 | whotels.com/Bangkok | 9am-10pm