Adjacent to Khlong San Plaza, a modest indoor-outdoor shopping area on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River, Duangrit Bunnag’s multi-use Jam Factory continues to mature with the addition of restaurant The Never Ending Summer. Occupying part of three old Chinese-Thai factories, the airy 70-seat eatery offers both short- and long-table dining, all with a view of the open kitchen at the back.
Décor follows industrial-minimalist lines, preserving the warehouse feel, and walls are nearly bare save for a few paintings and hanging plants below the vaulted ceilings. Furniture is mostly wood, metal and glass.
The chefs follow the vision of Duangrit’s partner Naree Boonyakiat, who mandated a menu inspired by her favourite childhood dishes. The result is an extensive, changing menu of classic Thai dishes, some of which are rarely seen elsewhere.
Ma Hor (B160), bite-sized chunks of pineapple topped with minced pork, prawn, peanuts, garlic and shallot, makes a homey starter. Chilli dips are also a house speciality, with many to choose from. Nam Phrik Ma Kham Pad, Pla Sa Lid Thod (B250) has cooked tamarind in the usual kapi base and is served with fried pla salit (dried anchovies). For those who prefer less spicy nam phrik, this is a good choice.
the well-known, very spicy, northern Thai-style ‘red-eye’ chilli dip (made with chilli and galangal) with crisped fish and candied pork.
According to Naree, the most popular chilli dip with Thai guests is pungent and provoking Nam Prik Long Reua, Moo Wan, Kai Kem (B280), which mashes up shrimp paste, dried shrimp, chilli and garlic served with sweet pork and salted egg. Much tamer is Poo Lhon (B270), a traditional coconut chilli dip made with minced crabmeat and served slightly warm. This one’s a winner with both Thais and foreigners.
For something heartier, try the tasty and aromatic Kang Raun Juan (B320), beef stewed in a tangy broth of lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, shrimp paste and chilli. This classic dates to the reign of Rama V, yet is hardly seen nowadays.
Crab features large in Ka Nom Jean Nam Ya Poo Pak Tai (B280), red curry cooked with crab meat and served with thin fresh rice noodles, sliced cabbage and long bean, beansprouts, fresh lemon-basil and boiled egg.
Cocktails (B280), mocktails (B180), beer and a variety on non-alcoholic beverages are available, as well as an array of tempting Thai desserts.
The Never Ending Summer
The Jam Factory, 41/5 Charoen Nakorn Rd | 0 2861 0953 | facebook.com/TheNeverEndingSummer | Tue-Sun 11am-11pm
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