All good creatives know that the more credibility your muse has, the more cool points you get among the arts crowd. The Only Son has plucked Jean Cocteau, the 1920s artist-poet-filmmaker and many other things besides as its spring summer 2014 inspiration, automatically giving the collection a hipster following.
But, clichéd muses aside, the collection is rather marvellous. There’s a dash of surrealism, a nod to the dandy trend, a hint of military uniforms and a strong current of 1920-style silhouettes. What that translates to is a very masculine, utilitarian collection – for both the men’s and women’s range. The tailoring is about as clean as it gets, with very strong lines creating a very grown-up leisurewear line.
The colour scheme is as sobering and stern as the tailoring, with blocks of black, navy, white and rust-orange dominating the collection.
Recurring trends throughout the collection are women’s wide-leg trousers, dresses folded with all the precision and simple beauty of an origami sculpture and men’s threepiece suits with tapered trousers and shorts that reach the mid-thigh. But despite the retro themes, the collection avoids looking like a sojourn to last century and manages to take key style elements and apply them to some very fashion-forward – almost futuristic – cuts. These impeccably clean lines can’t help but suggest money; great tailoring and exquisite fabrics will do that.
The other inescapable fact about the collection is its lack of femininity and yet its overt sex appeal. Barely any excess flesh is revealed and outfits avoid being excessively fitted throughout the women’s collection, and yet its stern sexiness is hard to miss. The quality of the fabrics, the confidence of the cuts and the simplicity of the designs give the wearer an air of inherent sexiness.
Stand-out pieces are the women’s suit, with its strongly masculine edge, and the men’s jackets, which are cropped short above the hip. There’s not one piece in the collection you could call out for being ‘soft’ – each piece tells the story of the collection in its own right. Each piece stands alone as the collection’s concept.
Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Ploenchit Road |theonlyson.com