Classic Italian à la Britannia
As the first-born offspring of London restaurant Theo Randall at the InterContinental—the renowned Italian kitchen that has become one of London’s top fine dining spots in just over a decade of operation— Theo Mio – Italian Kitchen, on the ground floor of the InterContinental Bangkok hotel, delights local diners with the scintillating culinary stylings of namesake founder and British celebrity restaurateur, Chef Theo Randall.
Under the able stewardship of Chef d’ Cuisine and London flagship alum Chris Beverley, Theo Mio brings to Bangkok a quarter-century’s worth of experience, along with the dishes and award-winning cooking philosophy that have now transcended the continents.
Our evening began with Calamari in Padella (B450), arriving with the sautéed, herbed squid and halved cherry tomatoes topped with fresh rocket. And lying beneath… a ‘hidden treasure’ of tender chickpeas seasoned with cumin. Next was Polpette con Burrata (B400), featuring meatballs in mixed-marriage of blend of Wagyu beef and pork, slow-cooked and served in a tomato and red wine broth—with a slice of bruschetta dolloped with creamy-rich Burrata cheese riding the sideboard.
The classically prepared, minimalist simplicity of the Caesar Salad (B425) made for a refreshing respite from the flurry of flavours and mosaic of spices we had thus far enjoyed (and indeed were to still come). Nibbling the salad’s generously thick-shaved Parmesan slices, we took in the airy, stylish dining room that brings to mind a shade-dappled lemon tree grove, with a sweeping glass-wall view of Bangkok’s bustling Rajaprasong shopping district at the front. Nearby, the flash of cooking flames, the blur of chopping knives, and brows furrowed in deep concentration may be glimpsed in the open-plan kitchen.
Ambience duly absorbed, we moved on to the pasta course featuring Taglierini con Aragosta e Chorizo (B725/1,085), with fine gauge, hand-drawn ribbon pasta hosting a spicy soirée of chorizo, salami, herbed tomato, basil and juicy spears of claw-meat lobster. Similarly, the Gnocchi con Porcini, Carciofi e Tartufo (B700) mingles the exquisitely al dente spud-nuggets with a butter-porcini sauce, with fresh artichokes and grated black truffle, topped with even more shaved truffle—just because.
A decadent departure from the house’s core cuisine, the Controfilleto di Manzo (B1,200) translates as “char-grilled Australian beef sirloin”, here served beautifully seasoned and seductively rare, donning a “green beret” of wild rocket, balsamic and shaved Parmesan.
The Selezione di Dolci Theo Mio (B600) is ideal for when you just cannot settle on a choice of dessert. The generously portioned five-item tasting selection arrived on a rustic wooden plank, and includes a flourless Verona-Chocolate Cake, with orange crema di mascarpone. But we were smitten with the exceptionally nutty Almond Tart with strawberries and vanilla cream. Also included is a Panna Cotta with roasted pineapple and lime syrup, Mini Doughnuts with lemon curd, and a classic, richly coffee-infused Tiramisu.
And for those with special dietary restrictions, initials in the menu listings indicate the presence of alcohol or pork in particular dishes.
By Chris Michael
Theo Mio – Italian Kitchen
GF, InterContinental Bangkok hotel
973 Ploen Chit Road
Open daily: 11:30am-11:30pm
Tel: 02 656 0444