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      IconSiam: Heritage in the Making

      December 18, 2018

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      December 17, 2018

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      Out and About rhythmic gymnastic kid photo

      Kidding Around

      January 4, 2019

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      An Interview With David Robinson

      November 5, 2018

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      Gimme a Break!

      May 10, 2018

      Out and About

      Football Fever

      May 9, 2018

  • RESTAURANTS
    • Restaurants Chef Chumpol Jangprai photo

      Breaking Bread with Chumpol Jangprai

      January 7, 2019

      Restaurants Red Oven SO Sofitel Bangkok food photo

      Seafood Lovers’ Dream Come True at SO Sofitel Bangkok

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      Restaurants Christmas Turkey cheese

      Christmas Eve Buffet Dinners at Sheraton Hua Hin Pranburi Villas – Sheraton Hua Hin Resort & Spa

      December 13, 2018

      Restaurants New Year Eve Brewski party photo

      Christmas is Coming Up at Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok

      December 12, 2018

      Restaurants EatMe Restaurant New Year Countdown

      Free-Flow Bubbly & Six-Course Dinner for Eat Me’s New Year Countdown

      December 11, 2018

  • Nightlife
    • All Feature Club Report Music Scene Nightlife News Reviews bars clubs Cocktail Lounges rooftop bars
      bars Blue Parrot restaurant and bar Bangkok photo 2

      Blue Parrot

      January 7, 2019

      Club Report Christmas Turkey cheese

      Christmas Eve Buffet Dinners at Sheraton Hua Hin Pranburi Villas – Sheraton Hua Hin Resort & Spa

      December 13, 2018

      Best of Bangkok New Year Eve Brewski party photo

      Christmas is Coming Up at Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok

      December 12, 2018

      bars EatMe Restaurant New Year Countdown

      Free-Flow Bubbly & Six-Course Dinner for Eat Me’s New Year Countdown

      December 11, 2018

      Feature Christmas Turkey cheese

      Christmas Eve Buffet Dinners at Sheraton Hua Hin Pranburi Villas – Sheraton Hua Hin Resort & Spa

      December 13, 2018

      Feature

      Tropic City’s New Cocktail Menu: Volume 2

      October 11, 2018

      Feature

      Zest Bar & Terrace

      July 6, 2018

      Feature

      I’ll Drink to That!

      June 1, 2018

      Club Report Christmas Turkey cheese

      Christmas Eve Buffet Dinners at Sheraton Hua Hin Pranburi Villas – Sheraton Hua Hin Resort & Spa

      December 13, 2018

      Club Report

      This month’s DJ events turn Bangkok into one big party venue

      October 6, 2016

      Club Report

      The DJ Booth

      August 31, 2016

      Club Report

      The DJ Booth

      July 25, 2016

      Music Scene Imagine Dragons

      Just Imagine

      October 13, 2017

      Music Scene

      Jazz Wednesdays

      March 20, 2017

      Music Scene

      The Rock Philosopher

      September 29, 2016

      Music Scene

      The Rock Philosopher

      September 7, 2016

      Nightlife News EatMe Restaurant New Year Countdown

      Free-Flow Bubbly & Six-Course Dinner for Eat Me’s New Year Countdown

      December 11, 2018

      Nightlife News Christmas Afternoon Tea Buffet Anantara Siam Bangkok

      Festive Cheer Arrives to Bangkok’s Most Prestigious Address

      December 11, 2018

      Nightlife News

      Tropic City’s New Cocktail Menu: Volume 2

      October 11, 2018

      Nightlife News

      Jay Sean at LEVELS

      September 5, 2018

      Reviews Blue Parrot restaurant and bar Bangkok photo 2

      Blue Parrot

      January 7, 2019

      Reviews EatMe Restaurant New Year Countdown

      Free-Flow Bubbly & Six-Course Dinner for Eat Me’s New Year Countdown

      December 11, 2018

      Reviews Christmas Afternoon Tea Buffet Anantara Siam Bangkok

      Festive Cheer Arrives to Bangkok’s Most Prestigious Address

      December 11, 2018

      Reviews Family Sunday Brunch Le Meridien Suvarnabhumi table photo

      Latest Recipe

      December 7, 2018

      bars Blue Parrot restaurant and bar Bangkok photo 2

      Blue Parrot

      January 7, 2019

      bars EatMe Restaurant New Year Countdown

      Free-Flow Bubbly & Six-Course Dinner for Eat Me’s New Year Countdown

      December 11, 2018

      bars

      Top Bangkok Riverside Bar Views

      November 15, 2018

      bars

      Tropic City’s New Cocktail Menu: Volume 2

      October 11, 2018

      clubs

      Mojjo Lounge Bar

      July 3, 2017

      clubs

      Nervo in Phuket

      December 6, 2016

      clubs

      Beach Club@Pullman G

      August 19, 2016

      clubs

      Flow House Bangkok

      June 2, 2016

      Cocktail Lounges Christmas Afternoon Tea Buffet Anantara Siam Bangkok

      Festive Cheer Arrives to Bangkok’s Most Prestigious Address

      December 11, 2018

      Cocktail Lounges

      Tropic City’s New Cocktail Menu: Volume 2

      October 11, 2018

      Cocktail Lounges

      The Diplomat Bar

      December 29, 2017

      Cocktail Lounges

      Revolucion Cocktail

      July 14, 2015

      rooftop bars

      ABar

      January 29, 2018

      rooftop bars

      Octave Rooftop Lounge

      October 5, 2017

      rooftop bars

      The sky’s the limit

      February 27, 2017

      rooftop bars

      ThreeSixty Lounge

      July 15, 2016

  • LIFESTYLE
    • Lifestyle News all day tattoo shop front photo

      All Day Tattoo Studio Bangkok

      January 16, 2019

      Lifestyle News Christmas Turkey cheese

      Christmas Eve Buffet Dinners at Sheraton Hua Hin Pranburi Villas – Sheraton Hua Hin Resort & Spa

      December 13, 2018

      Lifestyle News

      Raining Stars in Bangkok

      November 14, 2018

      Lifestyle News

      A Bright Idea

      June 29, 2018

      Lifestyle News

      Summer Hill Celebrates Grand Opening With Full Occupancy

      April 5, 2018

  • ART & CULTURE
    • All Art & Culture News Books & Film Exhibitions Feature Photo Feature
      ART & CULTURE Pawit Mahasarinand photo

      BACC… To the Future

      January 17, 2019

      ART & CULTURE Old Bangkok Fabrizio La Torre photo

      Memory Lane: A Walk Through Old Bangkok

      January 16, 2019

      ART & CULTURE Hugh Maynard acting photo

      An Interview with Hugh Maynard

      January 15, 2019

      ART & CULTURE Bangkok Art Biennale art pieces photo 4

      BangkoK Art Biennale

      January 9, 2019

      Art & Culture News Hugh Maynard acting photo

      An Interview with Hugh Maynard

      January 15, 2019

      Art & Culture News Bangkok Art Biennale art pieces photo 4

      BangkoK Art Biennale

      January 9, 2019

      Art & Culture News

      Desperation Versus Happiness in Art

      October 30, 2018

      Art & Culture News

      An Interview with Megan Ross

      October 16, 2018

      Books & Film

      Film News & Screenings

      August 31, 2018

      Books & Film

      Film News & Screenings

      July 31, 2018

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      Film News & Screenings

      June 29, 2018

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      Film News & Screenings

      June 1, 2018

      Exhibitions Bangkok Art Biennale art pieces photo 4

      BangkoK Art Biennale

      January 9, 2019

      Exhibitions Bruce Gundersen Art

      Bruce Gundersen

      December 11, 2018

      Exhibitions

      Desperation Versus Happiness in Art

      October 30, 2018

      Exhibitions

      Bangkok Biennale Beyond Bliss – Ecstasy of Truth

      October 16, 2018

      Feature Old Bangkok Fabrizio La Torre photo

      Memory Lane: A Walk Through Old Bangkok

      January 16, 2019

      Feature

      A Cultural Performance Like No Other

      September 12, 2018

      Feature dance Bangkok

      Movers and Shakers

      October 30, 2017

      Feature Imagine Dragons

      Just Imagine

      October 13, 2017

      Photo Feature

      Fashion Freeze Frame

      May 3, 2017

      Photo Feature

      Moving Images

      March 31, 2017

      Photo Feature

      3 amazing Thai female artists

      March 2, 2017

      Photo Feature Teeratat Numkaew at Kalwit Studio & Gallery

      La Fête Galleries’ Night

      January 30, 2017

  • TRAVEL
    • Travel News

      Upcountry Now

      August 31, 2018

      Travel News

      GLOW Ao Nang Krabi

      April 5, 2018

      Travel News

      Upcountry Now

      March 28, 2018

      Travel News

      24-hour Flash Sale At The Emerald Cove Koh Chang

      October 3, 2017

      Travel News

      Upcountry Now

      September 27, 2017

  • COLUMNS
    • All Bizarre Thailand CHew On This Historic Bangkok Joe’s Bangkok by Joe Cummings Making Merit Now/New/Nest Now/New/Next Tom’s Two Satang
      Best of Bangkok Wat Paknam photo 4

      Wat Pak Nam

      January 10, 2019

      CHew On This Street Food vendor Bangkok photo

      A Moveable Feast

      January 9, 2019

      Art Shane Suvikapakornkul photo

      Shane Suvikapakornkul

      January 8, 2019

      COLUMNS Kaeng Kari Nai Yong by Mr. Yong outdoor photo

      Chinese Thai Curry in Chinatown

      December 24, 2018

      Bizarre Thailand

      Bangkok Noir: The Telltale Art

      September 15, 2018

      Bizarre Thailand

      Whale Watching

      August 7, 2018

      Bizarre Thailand

      Edible Insects

      July 12, 2018

      Bizarre Thailand

      The Thai Way of Death

      June 18, 2018

      CHew On This Street Food vendor Bangkok photo

      A Moveable Feast

      January 9, 2019

      CHew On This

      Boat Noodles at Victory Monument

      October 31, 2018

      CHew On This

      At Your Service, Or Not

      October 16, 2018

      CHew On This

      Taking to the River

      September 10, 2018

      Historic Bangkok Iconsiam outdoor photo 3

      IconSiam: Heritage in the Making

      December 18, 2018

      Historic Bangkok

      JJ Mall: Shopping Nostalgia for the 60s, 70s and 80s

      October 10, 2018

      Historic Bangkok

      Bangkok’s other ‘intangible heritage’

      September 10, 2018

      Historic Bangkok

      The Joachim Grassi Effect

      August 24, 2018

      Joe’s Bangkok by Joe Cummings Wat Paknam photo 4

      Wat Pak Nam

      January 10, 2019

      Joe’s Bangkok by Joe Cummings

      A Day at the Stadium

      October 10, 2018

      Joe’s Bangkok by Joe Cummings

      Leave the Night On

      August 31, 2018

      Joe’s Bangkok by Joe Cummings

      Treasure Hunting

      August 12, 2018

      Making Merit

      New Year, Old Traditions

      March 28, 2018

      Making Merit

      Pachyderm Parade

      February 27, 2018

      Making Merit Trimurti Shrine

      Lover’s Landmark

      February 14, 2018

      Making Merit

      Second-Hand Treasure Troves

      November 27, 2017

      Now/New/Nest Shane Suvikapakornkul photo

      Shane Suvikapakornkul

      January 8, 2019

      Now/New/Nest Bruce Gundersen Art

      Bruce Gundersen

      December 11, 2018

      Now/New/Nest Angkrit Ajchariyasophon photo

      Angkrit Ajchariyasophon

      December 6, 2018

      Now/New/Next Shane Suvikapakornkul photo

      Shane Suvikapakornkul

      January 8, 2019

      Now/New/Next

      Zaiyu Hasegawa

      October 10, 2018

      Now/New/Next

      Tawn Chatchavalvong

      September 1, 2018

      Now/New/Next

      Josean Alija

      July 31, 2018

      Tom’s Two Satang

      On Thailand

      December 26, 2017

      Tom’s Two Satang

      On Bangkok

      November 22, 2017

      Tom’s Two Satang Ayutthaya

      On Ayutthaya

      October 16, 2017

      Tom’s Two Satang

      On Ending Particles

      September 24, 2017

  • CITY GUIDE
    • Restaurants
    • Nightlife listing
    • Shopping
    • Sightseeing
    • Museums & Galleries
    • Temples
    • On The Block
Top Posts
Newly renovated Moon Bar at Banyan Tree is...
Front Room
Karmakamet Conveyance
The Bar at The House on Sathorn
Valentine’s Experiences Outside The City
Valentine’s Deals Around Bangkok
Chinese New Year Gathering Locales
Silavadee Pool Spa Resort – Koh Samui
Gaja Korean Gastrobar
BACC… To the Future
All Day Tattoo Studio Bangkok
Memory Lane: A Walk Through Old Bangkok
An Interview With Michael Bridge

Bangkok 101

  • HOME
  • WHAT’S ON
  • BEST OF BKK
    • All Best of Bangkok My Bangkok Out and About
      Best of Bangkok Wat Paknam photo 4

      Wat Pak Nam

      January 10, 2019

      BEST OF BKK rhythmic gymnastic kid photo

      Kidding Around

      January 4, 2019

      Best of Bangkok Iconsiam outdoor photo 3

      IconSiam: Heritage in the Making

      December 18, 2018

      Best of Bangkok shopping mall Christmas tree photo

      Bangkok Sparkle

      December 17, 2018

      Best of Bangkok Wat Paknam photo 4

      Wat Pak Nam

      January 10, 2019

      Best of Bangkok Iconsiam outdoor photo 3

      IconSiam: Heritage in the Making

      December 18, 2018

      Best of Bangkok shopping mall Christmas tree photo

      Bangkok Sparkle

      December 17, 2018

      Best of Bangkok Miss Universe 2018 group photo

      Miss Universe 2018 Pageant Contestants at Blue Elephant Cooking School & Restaurant

      December 14, 2018

      My Bangkok

      An Interview With Thanaruek Laoraowirodge

      December 5, 2018

      My Bangkok

      Zymone Gill

      September 9, 2018

      My Bangkok

      Chef Gigg Kamol

      August 23, 2018

      My Bangkok

      Chef Vichit Mukura

      August 5, 2018

      Out and About rhythmic gymnastic kid photo

      Kidding Around

      January 4, 2019

      Out and About

      An Interview With David Robinson

      November 5, 2018

      Out and About

      Gimme a Break!

      May 10, 2018

      Out and About

      Football Fever

      May 9, 2018

  • RESTAURANTS
    • Restaurants Chef Chumpol Jangprai photo

      Breaking Bread with Chumpol Jangprai

      January 7, 2019

      Restaurants Red Oven SO Sofitel Bangkok food photo

      Seafood Lovers’ Dream Come True at SO Sofitel Bangkok

      January 4, 2019

      Restaurants Christmas Turkey cheese

      Christmas Eve Buffet Dinners at Sheraton Hua Hin Pranburi Villas – Sheraton Hua Hin Resort & Spa

      December 13, 2018

      Restaurants New Year Eve Brewski party photo

      Christmas is Coming Up at Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok

      December 12, 2018

      Restaurants EatMe Restaurant New Year Countdown

      Free-Flow Bubbly & Six-Course Dinner for Eat Me’s New Year Countdown

      December 11, 2018

  • Nightlife
    • All Feature Club Report Music Scene Nightlife News Reviews bars clubs Cocktail Lounges rooftop bars
      bars Blue Parrot restaurant and bar Bangkok photo 2

      Blue Parrot

      January 7, 2019

      Club Report Christmas Turkey cheese

      Christmas Eve Buffet Dinners at Sheraton Hua Hin Pranburi Villas – Sheraton Hua Hin Resort & Spa

      December 13, 2018

      Best of Bangkok New Year Eve Brewski party photo

      Christmas is Coming Up at Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok

      December 12, 2018

      bars EatMe Restaurant New Year Countdown

      Free-Flow Bubbly & Six-Course Dinner for Eat Me’s New Year Countdown

      December 11, 2018

      Feature Christmas Turkey cheese

      Christmas Eve Buffet Dinners at Sheraton Hua Hin Pranburi Villas – Sheraton Hua Hin Resort & Spa

      December 13, 2018

      Feature

      Tropic City’s New Cocktail Menu: Volume 2

      October 11, 2018

      Feature

      Zest Bar & Terrace

      July 6, 2018

      Feature

      I’ll Drink to That!

      June 1, 2018

      Club Report Christmas Turkey cheese

      Christmas Eve Buffet Dinners at Sheraton Hua Hin Pranburi Villas – Sheraton Hua Hin Resort & Spa

      December 13, 2018

      Club Report

      This month’s DJ events turn Bangkok into one big party venue

      October 6, 2016

      Club Report

      The DJ Booth

      August 31, 2016

      Club Report

      The DJ Booth

      July 25, 2016

      Music Scene Imagine Dragons

      Just Imagine

      October 13, 2017

      Music Scene

      Jazz Wednesdays

      March 20, 2017

      Music Scene

      The Rock Philosopher

      September 29, 2016

      Music Scene

      The Rock Philosopher

      September 7, 2016

      Nightlife News EatMe Restaurant New Year Countdown

      Free-Flow Bubbly & Six-Course Dinner for Eat Me’s New Year Countdown

      December 11, 2018

      Nightlife News Christmas Afternoon Tea Buffet Anantara Siam Bangkok

      Festive Cheer Arrives to Bangkok’s Most Prestigious Address

      December 11, 2018

      Nightlife News

      Tropic City’s New Cocktail Menu: Volume 2

      October 11, 2018

      Nightlife News

      Jay Sean at LEVELS

      September 5, 2018

      Reviews Blue Parrot restaurant and bar Bangkok photo 2

      Blue Parrot

      January 7, 2019

      Reviews EatMe Restaurant New Year Countdown

      Free-Flow Bubbly & Six-Course Dinner for Eat Me’s New Year Countdown

      December 11, 2018

      Reviews Christmas Afternoon Tea Buffet Anantara Siam Bangkok

      Festive Cheer Arrives to Bangkok’s Most Prestigious Address

      December 11, 2018

      Reviews Family Sunday Brunch Le Meridien Suvarnabhumi table photo

      Latest Recipe

      December 7, 2018

      bars Blue Parrot restaurant and bar Bangkok photo 2

      Blue Parrot

      January 7, 2019

      bars EatMe Restaurant New Year Countdown

      Free-Flow Bubbly & Six-Course Dinner for Eat Me’s New Year Countdown

      December 11, 2018

      bars

      Top Bangkok Riverside Bar Views

      November 15, 2018

      bars

      Tropic City’s New Cocktail Menu: Volume 2

      October 11, 2018

      clubs

      Mojjo Lounge Bar

      July 3, 2017

      clubs

      Nervo in Phuket

      December 6, 2016

      clubs

      Beach Club@Pullman G

      August 19, 2016

      clubs

      Flow House Bangkok

      June 2, 2016

      Cocktail Lounges Christmas Afternoon Tea Buffet Anantara Siam Bangkok

      Festive Cheer Arrives to Bangkok’s Most Prestigious Address

      December 11, 2018

      Cocktail Lounges

      Tropic City’s New Cocktail Menu: Volume 2

      October 11, 2018

      Cocktail Lounges

      The Diplomat Bar

      December 29, 2017

      Cocktail Lounges

      Revolucion Cocktail

      July 14, 2015

      rooftop bars

      ABar

      January 29, 2018

      rooftop bars

      Octave Rooftop Lounge

      October 5, 2017

      rooftop bars

      The sky’s the limit

      February 27, 2017

      rooftop bars

      ThreeSixty Lounge

      July 15, 2016

  • LIFESTYLE
    • Lifestyle News all day tattoo shop front photo

      All Day Tattoo Studio Bangkok

      January 16, 2019

      Lifestyle News Christmas Turkey cheese

      Christmas Eve Buffet Dinners at Sheraton Hua Hin Pranburi Villas – Sheraton Hua Hin Resort & Spa

      December 13, 2018

      Lifestyle News

      Raining Stars in Bangkok

      November 14, 2018

      Lifestyle News

      A Bright Idea

      June 29, 2018

      Lifestyle News

      Summer Hill Celebrates Grand Opening With Full Occupancy

      April 5, 2018

  • ART & CULTURE
    • All Art & Culture News Books & Film Exhibitions Feature Photo Feature
      ART & CULTURE Pawit Mahasarinand photo

      BACC… To the Future

      January 17, 2019

      ART & CULTURE Old Bangkok Fabrizio La Torre photo

      Memory Lane: A Walk Through Old Bangkok

      January 16, 2019

      ART & CULTURE Hugh Maynard acting photo

      An Interview with Hugh Maynard

      January 15, 2019

      ART & CULTURE Bangkok Art Biennale art pieces photo 4

      BangkoK Art Biennale

      January 9, 2019

      Art & Culture News Hugh Maynard acting photo

      An Interview with Hugh Maynard

      January 15, 2019

      Art & Culture News Bangkok Art Biennale art pieces photo 4

      BangkoK Art Biennale

      January 9, 2019

      Art & Culture News

      Desperation Versus Happiness in Art

      October 30, 2018

      Art & Culture News

      An Interview with Megan Ross

      October 16, 2018

      Books & Film

      Film News & Screenings

      August 31, 2018

      Books & Film

      Film News & Screenings

      July 31, 2018

      Books & Film

      Film News & Screenings

      June 29, 2018

      Books & Film

      Film News & Screenings

      June 1, 2018

      Exhibitions Bangkok Art Biennale art pieces photo 4

      BangkoK Art Biennale

      January 9, 2019

      Exhibitions Bruce Gundersen Art

      Bruce Gundersen

      December 11, 2018

      Exhibitions

      Desperation Versus Happiness in Art

      October 30, 2018

      Exhibitions

      Bangkok Biennale Beyond Bliss – Ecstasy of Truth

      October 16, 2018

      Feature Old Bangkok Fabrizio La Torre photo

      Memory Lane: A Walk Through Old Bangkok

      January 16, 2019

      Feature

      A Cultural Performance Like No Other

      September 12, 2018

      Feature dance Bangkok

      Movers and Shakers

      October 30, 2017

      Feature Imagine Dragons

      Just Imagine

      October 13, 2017

      Photo Feature

      Fashion Freeze Frame

      May 3, 2017

      Photo Feature

      Moving Images

      March 31, 2017

      Photo Feature

      3 amazing Thai female artists

      March 2, 2017

      Photo Feature Teeratat Numkaew at Kalwit Studio & Gallery

      La Fête Galleries’ Night

      January 30, 2017

  • TRAVEL
    • Travel News

      Upcountry Now

      August 31, 2018

      Travel News

      GLOW Ao Nang Krabi

      April 5, 2018

      Travel News

      Upcountry Now

      March 28, 2018

      Travel News

      24-hour Flash Sale At The Emerald Cove Koh Chang

      October 3, 2017

      Travel News

      Upcountry Now

      September 27, 2017

  • COLUMNS
    • All Bizarre Thailand CHew On This Historic Bangkok Joe’s Bangkok by Joe Cummings Making Merit Now/New/Nest Now/New/Next Tom’s Two Satang
      Best of Bangkok Wat Paknam photo 4

      Wat Pak Nam

      January 10, 2019

      CHew On This Street Food vendor Bangkok photo

      A Moveable Feast

      January 9, 2019

      Art Shane Suvikapakornkul photo

      Shane Suvikapakornkul

      January 8, 2019

      COLUMNS Kaeng Kari Nai Yong by Mr. Yong outdoor photo

      Chinese Thai Curry in Chinatown

      December 24, 2018

      Bizarre Thailand

      Bangkok Noir: The Telltale Art

      September 15, 2018

      Bizarre Thailand

      Whale Watching

      August 7, 2018

      Bizarre Thailand

      Edible Insects

      July 12, 2018

      Bizarre Thailand

      The Thai Way of Death

      June 18, 2018

      CHew On This Street Food vendor Bangkok photo

      A Moveable Feast

      January 9, 2019

      CHew On This

      Boat Noodles at Victory Monument

      October 31, 2018

      CHew On This

      At Your Service, Or Not

      October 16, 2018

      CHew On This

      Taking to the River

      September 10, 2018

      Historic Bangkok Iconsiam outdoor photo 3

      IconSiam: Heritage in the Making

      December 18, 2018

      Historic Bangkok

      JJ Mall: Shopping Nostalgia for the 60s, 70s and 80s

      October 10, 2018

      Historic Bangkok

      Bangkok’s other ‘intangible heritage’

      September 10, 2018

      Historic Bangkok

      The Joachim Grassi Effect

      August 24, 2018

      Joe’s Bangkok by Joe Cummings Wat Paknam photo 4

      Wat Pak Nam

      January 10, 2019

      Joe’s Bangkok by Joe Cummings

      A Day at the Stadium

      October 10, 2018

      Joe’s Bangkok by Joe Cummings

      Leave the Night On

      August 31, 2018

      Joe’s Bangkok by Joe Cummings

      Treasure Hunting

      August 12, 2018

      Making Merit

      New Year, Old Traditions

      March 28, 2018

      Making Merit

      Pachyderm Parade

      February 27, 2018

      Making Merit Trimurti Shrine

      Lover’s Landmark

      February 14, 2018

      Making Merit

      Second-Hand Treasure Troves

      November 27, 2017

      Now/New/Nest Shane Suvikapakornkul photo

      Shane Suvikapakornkul

      January 8, 2019

      Now/New/Nest Bruce Gundersen Art

      Bruce Gundersen

      December 11, 2018

      Now/New/Nest Angkrit Ajchariyasophon photo

      Angkrit Ajchariyasophon

      December 6, 2018

      Now/New/Next Shane Suvikapakornkul photo

      Shane Suvikapakornkul

      January 8, 2019

      Now/New/Next

      Zaiyu Hasegawa

      October 10, 2018

      Now/New/Next

      Tawn Chatchavalvong

      September 1, 2018

      Now/New/Next

      Josean Alija

      July 31, 2018

      Tom’s Two Satang

      On Thailand

      December 26, 2017

      Tom’s Two Satang

      On Bangkok

      November 22, 2017

      Tom’s Two Satang Ayutthaya

      On Ayutthaya

      October 16, 2017

      Tom’s Two Satang

      On Ending Particles

      September 24, 2017

  • CITY GUIDE
    • Restaurants
    • Nightlife listing
    • Shopping
    • Sightseeing
    • Museums & Galleries
    • Temples
    • On The Block
COLUMNSHistoric Bangkok

Underworld Art

written by Luc Citrinot June 19, 2018

Terrifying temple murals and ghoulish ghost shrines are all part of Thailand’s unique views on spirituality and life after death

Ghosts, and the idea of hell, have been part of Asia’s daily spiritual life for centuries, with folktales of this sort being very popular in countries such as Japan, China, Cambodia, Myanmar, and Thailand. In France, a major exhibition entitled Ghosts and Hells: The Underworld in Asian Art, is on display until July 15th, 2018 at the Paris Museum of non-European Arts (Musée du Quai Branly-Jacques Chirac) and Thailand is particularly well represented in this show. A large part of the exhibition centres on the superstitions and beliefs of Thais who are both fascinated and frightened by supernatural phenomena. The Theravada form of Buddhism that is practiced in Thailand incorporates the concept of the “Three Worlds” (traiphum), which, in turn, highlights the intimate link between hell, earth, and paradise. The world of “desire” forms the hell and earth, while paradise is composed of various stages—each level freeing one from contact with the strife of the lower world. Anyone on earth is always close to hell, but also to the first stage of paradise. The direction one goes in depends on one’s actions and behaviour.

But if you can’t make it to Paris, you can still see underworld art right here in Bangkok. In many Thai temples spectacular murals illustrate the life of the Buddha, and/or scenes from the Ramayana—an epic poem about the divine prince Rama—and some even depict daily life in Siam hundreds of years ago. However, there are also murals that show what eternal damnation can be like. Hell is always close at hand, as humans living in the intermediate world (hell and earth) are prone to desire and suffering.

In Bangkok, two temples have standing statues of Buddha which are surrounded by hellish images; just a gentle reminder to believers that it is necessary to always behave well, in order to one day reach paradise and, ultimately, Nirvana.

Wat Suthat

In Phra Nakhon, Bangkok’s historical Old Town, there are two temples offering spectacular frescoes depicting hell. Start your tour at Wat Suthat Thepphawararam (often simply called Wat Suthat). It’s easy to find as it faces both the Bangkok City Hall and the Giant Swing. This sanctuary is one of the most important in Bangkok, and is considered a First Class Royal Temple. Construction was started in 1807, but not completed until 1843. Inside the Viharn (prayer hall), the eye is caught by a giant statue of Buddha, which has been transferred here from the ancient capital of Sukhothai and dates back to the 14th century. This giant Buddha image is, in turn, surrounded by some of Bangkok finest murals—covering the columns, walls, and doors of the structure.

The murals mostly show classical Buddhist and Ramayana motifs, as well as scenes of Siamese history, but if you go behind the Buddha statue (to the left) the artwork on the back of one column is all about what hell could be—explicit scenes of torture with crucifixions and burnings, and assaults by demons, easily identified by their animal heads and human bodies!

Wat Saket

A five to ten-minute walk from Wat Suthat leads you to Wat Saket, better known among visitors with guidebooks as the ‘Temple of the Golden Mount’. If you climb to the top you’ll get a lovely panoramic view of Bangkok’s Old Town, but take time to visit the Consecrated Convocation Hall as well. From the Golden Mountain temple entrance, it is the second structure inside the compound, as well as being the first temple accessible from Worachak Road, making it easy to find.

The admirable murals here depict large images of Buddha, as well as various deities and traditional demons. In the middle of the consecration hall, a sitting Buddha in Bronze—which has also been transferred to Bangkok from Sukhothai—sits majestically with a subdued smile, surrounded by murals showing paradise. But pass behind the statue and look more closely at the frescoes. Mostly hidden by Buddha’s body are scenes of hell spread all over the wall, reminiscent of the works of Dutch medieval painter Hieronymus Bosch. The paintings are gruesome, showing people being tortured and burned, and terrorized by demons with animal heads. The details are just amazing, and show what Thais would call these days, the “garden of hell”.

Wat Mahabut

Spirituality in Thailand takes many turns, but the spirits of the deceased are always present and generally benevolent to the living if taken care of (this is the purpose of the ever present “spirit houses” one finds here). However, people who die a violent death, or in an abnormal way, roam the earth as Phi (wild hungry ghosts). One of the most popular folktales about a ghost of this kind is Nang Nak (also know as Mae Nak). In the 19th century, a man going to war left his young (and pregnant) wife alone, and both the woman and the child died during his absence. When he returned, the man did not realize that his wife and child were now ghosts and so continued to live with them. The villagers, knowing his young bride had died months earlier, soon realize the man is spellbound by her ghost—but those who attempt to tell him the truth are killed by her as she is desperate to stay with her husband.

Many movies about Nang Nak have been made over the years and a temple, located in Bangkok’s Phra Khanong district, where she died, is now consecrated to her ghost. The temple, known as Wat Mahabut, is close to Habito Mall and the condominium complex along Pridi Banyomong Road, Soi 2 (close to the canal). Inside the temple compound, which looks like a traditional village, there is a hall where people worship a golden statue representing the story’s heroine. This gilded statue is dressed and adorned, and locals leave her offerings. Nang Nak benevolence is requested by many a young woman hoping to conceive, but kathoey (ladyboys) also ask her to intervene on their behalf so they can avoid having to go into the Thai army (where conscription is handled via a ‘lucky draw’ lottery system). Worshipping a ghost, taking care of the ancestors, and implore spirits for good luck—at Wat Mahabut you are plunged into the true soul of Thailand’s superstitious netherworld.

Visitor Information: Wat Suthat is open every day until 6 pm, and is free of charge. Wat Saket (the Golden Mount) is open every day until 6 pm, but only the Consecrated Convocation Hall is free of charge. Both temples are easily accessible from Khlong Saen Saep Express Boat, Station Phan Fa Lilat Bridge. Wat Mahabut is equidistant from BTS stations Phra Khanong and On Nut (plus a taxi ride to Pridi Banyomong Soi 2). It’s open until late afternoon and is free of charge.

Words and photos by Luc Citrinot

Underworld Art was last modified: August 30th, 2018 by Luc Citrinot
Historic BangkokUnderworld Art
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Luc Citrinot
Luc Citrinot

Paris native Luc Citrinot has lived in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years, first in Kuala Lumpur and more recently in Bangkok. A seasoned traveller, he writes about tourism, culture, and architecture. He was instrumental on a recent EU-endorsed project to establish the European Heritage Map of Bangkok and subsequent app covering all of Thailand. Luc still travels extensively in Southeast Asia, looking particularly for new architectural gems related to colonial and European history.

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