The stairway to floor 61 leads to Vertigo, a cinematic rise to The Banyan Tree’s panoramic views of Bangkok. From here, sip on tropical cocktails, like Vertigo Sunset or Vanilla Sky (B570 each), as you soak up sunset hues and watch the night settle in. From the sleek, black rooftop terrace, city roads glitter like ribbons of light. There could hardly be a more beguiling setting in which to indulge at dinnertime—a feast for the eyes, as well as the appetite.
The Vertigo set menu (3-4 courses with/without spirits from B2900-5150++) offers variety, consistency, and an easy choice in the moment. Combining Latin American and Asian flavours, the spicy tuna ceviche with guacamole, cilantro, and lemon caviar is a light starter with a hint of heat. The olive oil poached red river prawns with yellow frisee and red spinach comes with a side of gazpacho sorbet; this frozen component adds an element of surprise on the palate and complements the dish with a mellow, tangy effect.
Vertigo doles out bright, seasonal sorbets as palate cleansers in between courses—a French tradition—to clear the taste buds for bold flavours, such as those in the Australian pasture-fed tournedos steak, a grass-fed filet mignon, with sautéed mushrooms, buttery Béarnaise sauce, and roasted vine tomatoes. The herb-crusted Atlantic cod is a great catch, too; the flaky fish has a mild sweetness and delightful crispy skin. It sits on a salty, citrus-laced green pea mash and a splash of rich lobster bisque sauce.
Those with a sweet tooth will enjoy breaking the brittle shell of the Chinese green tea crème brûlée and savouring the rich, creamy custard underneath. Ask for the vanilla bean ice cream to be served on the side to keep the crunch intact. The champagne-coloured lychee and ginger macaroon with honey crème Anglaise is studded with lychees and decorated with an edible pansy; this presentation speaks to the lightness of the dessert.
Aware of the perils of rainy season, the wait staff is prepared with a plan B in case clouds float in, ensuring an easy transition to another dining room downstairs. And with complimentary photographs snapped and printed before diners depart, Vertigo’s reputation for serving stunning special occasions is set in stone.
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Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com | daily 6pm-11pm