Banyan Tree’s Slickest Sky-high Space Yet
Neither an open-air rooftop bar, nor the kind of jazz den found in smoky brick-walled basements, Vertigo Too deftly toes the line between the two milieus. Throw in twinkling faux starlight, lacquered black fixtures, and complementing shades of galactic purple, it then rises to a higher stratosphere.
Vertigo Too is more or less symmetrical. Bisecting the venue is one tall table that seats 12, a semi-enclosed VIP area with leather chairs, and a small alcove where bands and DJs set up. To either side are smaller tables seating four, loungers for two, and, above them, chairs next to the windows on narrow mezzanines, providing a crow’s nest view of the floor as well as the city streets below. In other words, sit with the company of one or many, with or without a sky-high view.
As night settles in, Vertigo Too takes on the air of a jazz club, where the post-work crowd goes to roll up sleeves and sip whisky cocktails. Later, the vibe picks up when a DJ takes the decks. But with the lights low and music soft, the place lends itself to chatter over dishes to share. Cod and truffle Parmesan chips with Sriracha chilli mayonnaise (B400) are a fine snack for the occasion—surprisingly hard to put down, probably owing to the truffle and mayo—but look to the full menu to fill up.
Designed by chefs from all the hotel’s restaurants, the cuisine is “cross-cultural,” although the Thai element in that equation comes through strongest. Try the tom yum spring rolls (B510), which nail the flavour of Thailand’s most prominent soup. And they’re fun to eat, served as they are in one-bite portions on large silver spoons. Likewise, the tuna tartare (B510) with avocado mousse and radish mayo are succulent Asian tapas. Even hardier fare—an outstanding pork belly (B470), tea-smoked lamb medallions with a jus you could just drink with a straw (B550), a seafood basket swimming with Hokkaido scallops, river prawns, raw tuna, oysters, and more (B1350)—are made to share.
The drinks list is virtually one full page of standout choices. Among them are The Hitchcock (B490), a blend of cucumber Tangueray, vermouth, elderflower honey, lemon, and soda, and the Smoke & Mirrors (B490), a masculine mix of bacon rye, maple, bitters, and Applewood smoke. Even the mocktails have a depth not usually achieved in alcohol-free beverages. And Kai, the award-winning mixologist from Hawaii, eagerly tailors off-the-menu drinks.
Cosmological comparisons might be too easy, but even so Vertigo Too stands among the stars.
Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com | daily 5pm-1am
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