Authentic Italian fare done to perfection
Traditional Italian cooking builds on simplicity and the use of quality ingredients, rather than elaborate techniques and kitchen processes. In Bangkok, a city with an abundance of Italian restaurants, many overcompensate on the latter in an effort to stand out. However, Executive Chef Marc Cibrowius, the kitchen master at Volti Ristorante & Bar, stays true to the original beauty of the cuisine—mastering the skill of creating authentic Italian dishes with some unique twists.
The restaurant is located on the lobby floor of the Shangri-La, Hotel Bangkok’s Shangri-La Wing, and is divided into three sections. From the modern bar with adjacent lounge area at the entrance, a staircase leads guests to the main dining area. Furnished with cream-coloured, upholstered seats, and dark wooden tables, the high-ceilinged room is lined with a glass panelled wine display and a large open kitchen. Opposite of the kitchen, guests can overlook a lower floor dining area, with access to an outside terrace.
We began with the Caprese di Burratina (B460), an Italian staple of creamy Burratina cheese sitting on a bed of finely sliced tomatoes, basil, and rocket salad, followed by the Insalata di polpo (B390), consisting of tender pieces of marinated octopus on a medley of diced potatoes, parsley, taggia olives, and cherry tomatoes. A definite highlight, however, was the accompanying home-made onion bread. In traditional Italian style, this first course was followed by pasta—in our case a plate of divinely al-dente, creamy Lobster linguine (B790).
A recent addition to the Volti menu are the giant pizzas, which are available until the end of January and are served with a pitcher of Chang beer per set. While the thin crust is as Italian as it gets, it’s in the toppings that the chef dares to get a little more innovative. Different in taste, but both recommendable, we devoured slices of the decadent Gourmet pizza (B1,288), with BBQ chicken, foie gras, and crispy prosciutto, as well as the Thai-inspired “Krungthep” pizza (B788), featuring Northern-style sausages, Thai baby eggplant, chili, mango, and rocket salad.
After this excursion into the world of comfort food we were back on the fine dining track with our two main courses: the roasted sea bass (B700), which was expertly cooked and accompanied by potato slices, salicornia, and a flamboyant saffron sauce; and the succulent Grilled lamb chops (B1,100), served with couscous and red wine jus.
To end this beautiful dinner, it only seemed right to indulge in some traditional Italian desserts. Despite being a self-confessed-connoisseur when it comes to tiramisu, the light mascarpone mousse of Volti’s version (B280) had me at the first spoonful, while the crumbles of mascarpone cheese and liquid nitrogen which were sprinkled on top of the accompanying Panna Cotta (B280) made for a smoky surprise.
Volti Ristorante & Bar
GF, Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok, 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu
Tel: 02 236 7777 | Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm