A smart, friendly neighbourhood steakhouse
Three bankers opened Wholly Cow around the concept of wine, steak and cigars, back in July, although the cigar bar (called ‘Holy Smokes’) was originally going to be a butcher until they did the sums and figured nicotine might generate more revenue. They even plan to open a noodle stall in the front courtyard for lunch. This last is an extension of the original property – an old Thai house that for many years was a noodle shop that the bankers – all locals – visited regularly.
The old house itself is now invisible from the outside. It forms the kitchen and office areas, having been wrapped by a new structure, (inevitably) glass-fronted, with an interior of warehouse-chic – the faux brick facades, the black girders, the polished concrete floor… The loosely American-style menu offers relaxed, informal dining that you can order Thai sharing style or Euro individual plates. It draws a crowd (and there’s already a good turnout) of mainly Thais – but with a decent smattering of farang – and mixed, with kids and grannies, after work chill-out, romantic couples and families weekend brunching.
The menu starts with options like nachos (B140++) – actually very tasty, topped with cheese and bacon and a slightly sweet salsa that worked well against the salty corn chips – and pan fried scallops wrapped in bacon (B250++), in which the bacon ideally would have been cooked a little longer, but not disastrous. Australian Angus tenderloin and rib eye (both B650++) come as thin cut 8oz steaks, aged 21 days, both with a good sear and well seasoned in a ‘secret marinade’ with nuances of Lea & Perrins sauce. To finish, the crepes Suzette and chocolate soufflé (which was more akin to a half-baked chocolate cake) were both tasty.
Wines start at B750++/bottle for a drinkable Misiones de Rengo from Chile (the only by-the-glass option, B200++) and run to around B3,500++, with Belgian beers (B145- 275) a good alternative.
If you’re turned on (or off ) by the prospect of live pop and easy listening jazz, often with an audience sing-along, it starts at 7.30pm on Friday and Saturday. Otherwise, the Cow is a smart, friendly neighbourhood option.
Ari Soi 2 | 02-619-8177 | whollycowbkk.com | Tue-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-10:30pm