Zense is back, and as funky as ever. This huge space, cleverly divided into various levels, retains its wooden deck flooring and surrealist staircases leading nowhere, and now disguises the predictable factory ceiling of pipes and ducts behind a construction of white latticework.
Outside, the narrow terrace is also split level, with great views particularly from the bar section and the opposite end tables (grab 312, if you can), which overlook Chidlom station and down the Skytrain lines toward Sukhumvit. And, being only the 17th floor, it feels you’re right amid the action of the Ratchaprasong high-rise lights.
This is a terrific venue for cocktails (a long list of originals and vintage, from B295++), inside or out, and as before it attracts a mix of ages, some business suited, others denim clad dates cooing over the trancey soundtrack. The problems come with the dining operation, an upmarket food court theme, with several kitchens run by established Bangkok restaurants – Thai (The White Café), Japanese (Kikusui), Italian (Gianni), European (To Die For) and Indian (Red). You can eat from one or all. We tried a dish from each.
Our first course, puffed salmon with green mango avocado relish – basically exploded catfish made with salmon (B350++ from) was tasty, with a good, sour, fairly spicy relish. It was the best of the night. Good, too, was the Japanese sweet crab meat and corn soup (B290++).
The next three courses were all lukewarm by the time they reached the table. Shame, particularly with the Ozzie Wagyu strip loin (B1,200++), which was otherwise tasty and not too heavily marbled; and the flambéed prawn masala (B585++), in which the sauce had excellent, deep flavours. Unfortunately, the prawns were a tad overcooked, as was the grilled lemon sole with white wine lemon and caper sauce (B690++). The Sunset Creek Chardonnay (one of several wines by the glass, from B250++) stood up very well to the curry.
As long as you don’t expect gourmet dining, Zense has lots to offer, including a great location. It’s sure to be buzzy. เซนส์ เซ็นทรัลเวิลด์ ถ.ราชดำริ
Zense, Fl 17 Zen World, CentralWorld, 4/1-2 Ratchadamri Rd, 02-100-9898 | www.zensebangkok.com| BTS Siam or Chidlom | OPEN Daily 5pm-1am[mappress mapid=”4″]